1936 Chev Coupe Build Page 2

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Quality custom & restoration sheet metal work & repair

The lower hinge pocket was also finished of clean.

The last of the old metal removed.

It's starting to have the right flow.

The new front mounts are similar to the rears but not as deep of an off set due to the front frame rails being pinched in

The owner likes the overall look of the patterns.

This section of the wheel arch has a bunch of flats & is real thin so I decided to replace it..

After several incremental adjustment passes its getting real close.

Side panel pattern still has to be made

Temporary inner rear body supports.

Both sides are welded into the pillar & lower hinge mount then ground clean, the bottom of the door pillar will be rebuilt after the running board & rear fender bottom location is finalized.

The left lower front wheel arch needs to be made.

The new section is fully welded then ground clean then some hammer & dolly work plus it flows nicely.

The new lower section is fully welded & ground clean looks real nice.

Inside welds ground also.

The new center piece is fully welded then ground clean, looking nice now and not all cobbled up.

The welded area is ground clean now its time to start making the lower section.

Marking the old garbage for cutting.

More slice & dice time removing most of the rear panel

Marked & cut out now you can see the other temporary support brace.

The upper hinge openings need some filling along with the inner lip patches were made welded & ground clean

roughing in the left side same process, shrink, stretch smooth & keep at it.

I rolled the car out side & did a quick mock up to get an overall idea where the project was headed till it was stopped.

Then run it thru the Baileigh MH19 to form the accent line its not like I haven done this before.

About 95 % welded & ground clean

New section flows real nice & look great.

Right side rear body panel rough fit.

The left side lower section is fully welded & ground clean.

Back a few months ago I informed the owner I needed to raise my labor & materials rate

OCT 1st 20018 it's just the cost of doing business, so 2 week ago he informed me he was pulling before then. So I installed some temporary upper body to frame supports then cut the table to chassis mounts & rolled it off of my chassis table.

The inside was also ground clean lots of detail work in this door jam.

With the old panel removed you can see some of the garbage work done by the previous owner.

I think we are starting to look like we are getting the look & stance that we want.

I made up a new lower patch section in 2 pieces then tig welded them together this extends down about 1 1/2 inches below the old piece to match the rear fenders. Also the accent line next to the fender tapers down just like the original just lower. I still have to make 1 more small piece to finish this section before welding on. this is a small tricky piece to make & look correct.

With the wheel arch moved up & the new upper panel in place they are fully welded in & ground clean, now its hammer & dolly time.

The right side piece was made.

Making the right side now form a L channel to the fender contour then put in the accent line & tapper it down towards the bottom like the originals but this new piece is 2 1/4 inches longer . due to rear fender relocation.

I changed the pocket ends design making them flatter not angled I just felt they will look cleaner for the overall look. Some times you have to step backwards a little to advance forward to get a cleaner look.

The right side is done welded & ground clean.

New repair sections were made then welded in & ground clean except the lower section as a new lower skin section will be added later.

I made a die set to match the accent line for my Baileigh MH-19

The old door handle hole needs attention also.

The rear lower valance will need some straightening & old paint removal.

After cleaning it up I moved it down 2 1/2 inches to align with the fender lines.

They are simple, clean & very stout with pockets for the rubber donuts & the bolts plus when the floor pan goes in there will be good tying surfaces.

The left side & a center shot lots of final adjustment & trimming to size to be done still.

The 3rd & final piece of this panel was tig welded in place

More temporary support bracing added.

Even though it is raised about 2 1/2 inches it looks wright plus flows & fits real nice not an easy piece to do.

A patch was made welded & ground clean.

Lots of shrinking, stretching, smoothing & more shrinking, stretching, shrinking stretching & smoothing to get it sorta close more to go still.

Temporary spacers to match the left side.

Now that it is open up I can do more welding to the inner pillar to chassis mount.

After several passes thru the Multi hammer.

The previous builder made the rear lower body section from 10 different pieces then poured on the sculpture material, I will make it in 2 pieces & retain the bottom factory accent line adjusted down.

Then more supports for the bottom rear valance.

Old panel still underneath but the fit & look is dead on.

The old section is cut out & the old cobble welds ground clean

Some minor dents in the crown of the right fender before & after.

Forming & fitting the next piece.

The front section needs a bunch of work.

The new section was tacked in then the main upper pillar has to be repaired above the hinge box, a matching block was cut to fit welded in after that a filler piece was made and welded in place to make the pillar solid again lots of unseen detail work to make it strong & clean.

Both sides accent lines where the rear fenders bolt on were patched pieces plus moving the bottom panel down required me to make new sections. I started with a v channel then using my shrinker & stretcher I formed one to the body shape.

Right side now working on the final shaping & fit getting close.

Upper section made, welded & fully ground cleanplus finished the hinge pocket.

These patterns put me real close to what I am looking for the over all look of the back area, I also have to think about how to attach to the chassis.

With the door open about 80 percent.

Its cut into 4 pieces just like the left side.

The tail pan corners were cobbled together & thin.

After more shrinking stretching & a bunch of hand manipulation its starting to fit pretty close this is a tricky part to make it still needs tweaking to be wright.

Now for the tedious & slow process of making the rear floor & wheel tub patterns while working around the rear body support, but it has to be done.

Right side section was fit, welded & ground clean.

Then more shrinking, stretching & tweaking to make it fit.

Some of the rear panel removed, some spots 3 layers of patches.

This is what I cut out real crap work.

New sections clamed and in place

What's left of the old body to fender mounts are being removed & a batch of new ones were made then more bondo & old paint was removed.

Tig welding it up.

Its time to work on the lower front quarter sections first I need to get the fenders bolted in place then get the running boards set up for ride height.

The contour & fit is on now time to make the left side it will be welded in once the other side is made.

The left side is done just like the right side.

I made the right side first here it is just checked for fit.

Shrinker stretcher time to get the shape & contour.

The 2 new rear pieces still need tweaking.

Time to do some clean up on both doors, first the new upper & lower hinge mount areas were into the jam due to pivot points they were trimmed back flush, next there was a recessed pocket in the lip that needed to be filled and ground clean.

Now for the door jams notice it has a double curve so a new smooth replacement section is made so there will be a tapered transition at the upper & lower hinges.

Just like the left side the right need a new clean pillar section, the new section was formed then the old garbage cut out then all the old welds cleaned up.

After lots of thumpin, bumpin shoving & pushing the rear panels are about 95 % there now before I weld them in I need to make up the rear trunk floor & wheel tubs while I still have rear access. If I weld in the rear body section it will make it a lot harder to do the rear floor & tubs. Its all about having access.

The original upper & lower hinge mounts were big, heavy & ugly along with a couple of extra holes. So I cut them out.

That is it for this project, it was a challenge & fun hope you enjoyed what was done in the shop & thanks for looking.

The bottom section had more sculpture material underneath 3/8 of an inch thick.

The front mount will have to be changed also to fit the new body height on the chassis.

Back on the 36 after some personal injury issues. Due to raising the body I am having to change all the body to chassis mounts the first 2 are the rears

I do believe the rear tires make a statement.

HP lots of HP

Trimmed to fit.

Now its time to redo the lower door jam first the old garbage is cut off.

Its cleaning up decently.

I made up the small filler piece then after fully tig welding it in I ground it clean, with some hammer& dolly straightening.

The right side is starting to look like it should.

The 2 pieces were then tig welded together.

1936 Chev Coupe Build Page 2

Nice & clean now no cobbled mess.

Its slice & dice time to match the left side.

Same steps as before bend a V channel then shrink & stretch to get the basic contour.

overall flow of the line is nice it will need some tweaking to get it dead nuts on as the upper flat part changes shape to flow into the body contour.