​Quality custom & restoration sheet metal work & repair

Just like the other door this skin had to be shrunk stretched and E wheeled to the contour shape of the door.

​Tack tig welded then fully welded in.

​Hytec pin hole detector.

​Both doors and hinges in last primer for now till fit on the cab by the owner.

​Ground the front weld seam clean, now hammer dollie and shrink disc time.

​Time to remove the rotten skin section..

​Some miscellaneous welding and clean up.

​After a little touch up filler work.

​First of high build primer.

​Tig weld the rust thru holes.

Both doors hung up for first round high build epoxy primer.

​One last look all around the Jamb areas for any additional repair looks nice.

​I then formed a new corner piece.

Just for reference this is what the truck will look like put together except it will be in the original color Chrome Yellow

​Tig weld the cracks up.

​Old skin section removed.

A skim coat of filler was used to make it straight and contour correct. this door is ready for high build epoxy primer.

​Now for the door stuck handle fix that I drilled out earlier I cut a piece of bar stock then ground a v on the new plug and cut the old, drilled section off and ground it also . Then clamped both pieces to my weld table.

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Thats it for this project and ready for the owner to pick them up.

Out of my rust removal dip tank.

​Final fit and tig weld the new lower skin section

Rust preventative paint being applied to all the inner structure before the new lower skin section is installed, I use Zero Rust as it can be sanded and painted.

​The main seam was fully tig welded then the back and front were ground clean now its hammer dolly and shrink disc time to remove the warpage.

I turned the flanges over  then finish tig welding the front seam slowly to keep distortion down. 

​Inside after welds ground clean.

​New lower outer skin section made 19 gauge.

​I ground the weld clean for a smooth finish.

I welded the pre punched holes on the flange.

The bottom of the other door was even worse a lot more rust out repair will be needed..

As always I tack weld first then fully weld in skipping around to control warpage.

​I scraped as much as possible of the old sound deadener now to my dip tank for rust removal.

Fun fact the truck has been in his family since new.

Hinges cleaned up and hung.

Next I slowly welded the 2 pieces together keeping them straight then ground the welds down flush and now we have a restored shaft that fits great.​

​Welds ground clean.

​Back side.

Notched for the lower hinge and will be shrunk to match the door curvature.  

​Rust preventative paint on inside before new skin.

​Cut out the old rotten center section.

​The flange was turned over than  welded to frame thru the pre punched holes after that the welds ground smooth.

I was brought these 1937 Studebaker Coupe Express PU doors for rust out repair. The owner is doing the restoration himself, but the doors were over his skills.

I use Zero Rust for prevention all inner areas and flange areas before new skins are installed, braces ect and its paintable with a light sanding..

​Ground the pinhole welds clean.

​Now with the handle out I did the final fit for the lower skin section , tig tack welded it on with the flange weld holes pre punched. I can now finish the seam weld. I have temporary leveling clips held with the clecos on the inside.

​Trimmed for final fitment.

The new corner piece was laid down for final fit check then the rust out marked and the rust out removed.

​I ground the flange welds clean.

A little bit of filler work its almost ready for the first epoxy prime coat.

​Weld ground clean nice smooth finish.

​A touch more trim work.

The doors the way they came to me most of the paint stripped off.

​I put the door in my rust removal dip tank this is the results rust gone it doesn't remove paint or filler.

​The drivers door handle was stuck in the latch mechanism, owner could not get out I tried heat to break rust, kano almost all the tricks but one last trick up my sleve. I drilled a hole large as I dare but not into the latch mechanism and deep enough to clear the mechanism section than using a drift punch in the hole smacked it twice with a good sized hammer wala it popped out. I came up with that trick about 10 years ago on another project.

After some hammer dolly and shrink disk work.

​My universal rack really comes in handy whether doing the repair work or priming. I will let them cure for a couple of days than start the block out and look over for any minor touch up needed.

​Lower hinge mount needs attention.

After I formed the lower section it had to be shrunk and stretched to the old skin shape.